![]() To attach a bracket to a wall, first position it against the wall and mark the first hole with a pencil or nail.Wall plugs normally have the drill diameter marked on them and possibly also the max diameter screw that can be used.Use thicker wall plugs and screws for heavier loads. 40 to 50 mm (1 1/2 to 2 inch) long screws are fine for most applications. The hole is drilled to adequate depth, the wall plug inserted and the fixture screwed onto the wall with 8 or 10 gage (4mm or 5mm) diameter screws.These expand and grip the side of the hole when a screw is driven into them. If a wall is solid construction you must use plastic screw anchors also known as wall plugs.You can buy a voltage detector for detecting the presence of power cables. Before drilling a wall make sure you know where cables and pipes are routed.Use an 5/16 (8mm) bit and wall plugs for heavier loads (cupboards, bookshelves etc). A 1/4 inch (6mm) bit for drilling the holes and 6 mm wall plugs are ideal for mounting light shelf brackets, socket and switch outlets, etc. Cordless or corded, hammer action, power drill.These are fine for mounting socket outlets, switches, light fittings on ceilings, and other light loads. Then attach whatever you are hanging on the the wall to the fixing using the screw provided. Now drive the fixing into the plasterboard either using a special dedicated drive bit for a cordless drill or a normal screwdriver. The pilot hole diameter may be marked on the fixing, but if not, drill a hole the diameter of the unthreaded core of the fixing in the plasterboard. These will either have a cutting edge and make their own hole in the plasterboard/drywall or you may have to drill a small pilot hole first. These are small metal or plastic fixings with a coarse outer thread and inner thread which takes a screw. For heavier loads, screw directly into the wall studs. The appropriate fixings for drywall are metal or plastic self-drive fixings (anchors), spring toggle anchors or expansion anchors. However, these are only suitable for very light loads (e.g., small mirrors, light picture frames and smoke alarms). You can use plastic wall plugs (See mounting on masonry walls below) directly pushed into the plaster. Choose the length of the screw to cater for the combined thickness of the back of the cabinet and drywall.įixing to Drywall (Plasterboard) - Cavity Fixingsįor stud and drywall (also known as plasterboard), there are several options. If the back of a cabinet isn't pre-drilled, drill holes the same diameter as the screws you are using and then screw the screws into the wall. If the back of a cabinet is fairly thick and not just thin hardboard, you can drive screws straight through from front to back and into the wall. Cabinets sometimes have flat pieces of metal at the back from which the cabinet can be screwed to the wall and "suspended". Metal brackets usually have pre-drilled holes. Studs are typically spaced 16" (400mm) apart and can be found with an electronic stud detector or identifying where drywall sheets butt together at the centre of a stud. Modern LED TVs are quite light compared to CRT or plasma types, so you may get away with mounting the brackets directly onto boards or drywall. Heavier items such as cabinets and TV brackets need to be fixed to the wall studs with 10 or 11 gage (about 5mm diameter) screws. Light items, such as small picture frames, wall clocks etc., can be screwed directly to timber panelling/boards if you don't have drywall. The method used to mount cabinets, brackets for shelves, coat hooks, etc., on a wall depends on the nature of the wall construction.
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